It must be said that the location of Sydney’s Absinthesalon, halfway along a steep hilly Albion Street, is well placed – given that the natural effects of gravity can only but assist the imbiber down the hill towards Central train station and other responsible forms of public transport. Let this be ample encouragement to leave the car at home dear absintheur, and enjoy the full experience.

Bad timing, pregnancy and the global financial crisis have all plotted against me in my efforts to be able to fly into Sydney to get along to the new Absinthesalon premises before now, but now I am here outside the dark grey toned establishment.  You may sometimes read this in other reviews of the Salon, but I can myself verify that as you linger outside the door you may detect the tell tale aromatic signature of aniseed in the air.

Proprietors Joop van Heusden and Gaye Valttila are most welcoming and usher me inside into the front room of the salon – exposed rustic brickwork, displays of the extensive range of quality absinthe products and water fountains, a giant antique cash register adorning a counter serve as a prelude to the inner sanctum behind the draped curtain adorned doorway.

Behind the curtain is a most intimate and inviting environment that captures the feeling of a proper absinthe salon. Now, don’t get me wrong, Belle Époque in Brisbane is an excellent representation of retro-French dining, all gold leaf edging and fleur-de-ly’s, but Gaye and Joop have utilised the limited space typical of a period Surry Hills terrace to manifest a very different type of neo-Gallic experience.  The interior is illuminated with a ‘petite’ version of wrought iron street lamp posts, tasteful minimalism to the interior decoration, round mirrors and sparing use of stylistic wallpaper. The far wall is adorned with a graceful mural of La Fée Verte, the Green Fairy herself, a fine rendition of one of the most famous representations of her from the original heyday.

With room for at most 30-odd patrons, all seating is set around a pleasingly non-crowded arrangement of small café tables adorned with 4 tap water fountains for the absinthe ritual. And let’s be clear, the experience and discussion of absinthe is not unlike that of wine, it should be shared amongst convivial company. The spacial design suitably encourages this.

Friday and Saturday nights are generally booked out in advance so don’t be surprised if you rock up on a whim and unable to satisfy your curiosity.  Another aspect to be aware of is that there is a three drink limit per person. Some may find this as profoundly odd that a drinking establishment would be seeking to limit their own sales, but as any absintheur worth their salt will tell you, the consumption of each glass of absinthe should be prolonged, savoured, and well considered. When approached in this fashion most will be satisfied after two glasses, some even after one.

So as Joop himself may tell you, “Slow Down!”.
(I know this is counter-intuitive to most Sydney-siders, but advice well worth heeding. Hey, you got a booking, stay around and enjoy the ambience for a while.)

Also, don’t be surprised if your hosts take on the role of Sommelier, and in fact steer you away from initially diving head-first into the high-proof absinthe brands. They are there to help you enjoy the absinthe experience as much as possible, and as such they will guide you through appropriate entry level absinthes until you have a better appreciation for the flavours, the nuances and styles. There are many absinthes to try in a range of price brackets (from around $12 a glass upwards), many styles and regions to explore.

You’ll just have to keep coming back won’t you?

I know I will.

Stay tuned for review of Jade PF 1901 absinthe conducted in situ

Dear fellow supporters of free expression,

I have had a review, a less than complementary one at that, sitting in the draft file for a while now, not quite sure when to post it. Circumstances seem to have emerged such that it seems timely to make a comment about a certain establishment in Adelaide owned by the Booze Brothers chain, known as The Boho Bar.

Located on Unley Road, a hop skip and stagger away from Adelaide city, The Boho Bar describes itself thus on its website

“Indulge your sense in true bohemian spirit. Boho incorporates the nostalgic elements of the circus, the old burlesque sideshows and classic, bohemian cabaret theatres - and mixes them with a sleek, modern service and a kaleidoscope of sounds, light and movement. Its menu is bursting with colour & flavour with a fantastic selection of tapas style dishes and platters. Lavish, cheeky, sinister and enticing…”

I attribute the Adelaide Fringe for the rise in local Boho Chic, which in itself is not a bad thing, but when a venue seeks to make this its raison d’etre, well – I expect a certain standard to be achieved.

I’ll say it up front, The Boho Bar is to the French Parisian Café and Burlesque Hall what PJ O’Briens is to Irish Pubs. It’s a plastic paddy pub in a beret. Instead of fiddles, road signs pointing to Dublin and hurling sticks, its repro-french furniture, bad stage sets and cabinets with early 20th century entertainment flotsam and jetsam. Strip back the superficial fleur-de-lys patina and you would have a standard steel framed, television lined sports bar.

Yes, they serve absinthe, or rather ‘absinth’ – of the most atrocious and overpriced kind.  More to the point they seem happy to charge an extra $5 on each cocktail for using “King of Spirits Absinth” which isn’t fit to disinfect my toilet basin, and nary a true absintheur would disagree (i.e. so bad we find it hard to justify purchasing a bottle to review). And they burn their absinthe for heaven’s sake, showing their schtick for cheap theatrics extends to the bar.

Now, the downward spiral has continued, with this establishment being reported in the Adelaide Advertiser as now implementing a “No Drag” policy.  Sorry, come again?  A bar that supposedly embraces the “true bohemian spirit”  is bothered by cross dressers?

The paper reports that Male-to-female transgender retail worker Susan was refused entry to The Boho Bar while out with three non-cross-dressing friends.  When she contacted Booze Brothers co-director Leon Saturno two days later seeking an explanation she was told there was a new policy that “no cross-dressers would be allowed anymore”.

Well, I think the more discerning Bohemian in Adelaide can probably find much more accommodating neo-Bohemian establishments in Adelaide that serve much better absinthe anyway - but it shits me that an establishment riding on the coattails of an attitude and aesthetic, that by its very nature embraces and promotes individuality and difference, may allegedly be implementing a policy of discrimination.

Might I suggest that all within the Burlesque arts and Bohemian culture think about reposting the Adelaide Advertiser article on their blogs and websites. Perhaps this will let Mr Saturno know exactly what the community thinks about his policy.

Methinks maybe it is time to relegate Boho alongside the likes of other theme restaurants like the Medieval Dirty Dicks ?

Important news update antipodean absintheurs of Sydney!

Sometimes investing in an expensive bottle of absinthe does require a little bit of trust - wouldn’t it be good if you could try a range first before making that decision?

Well now you can.

Those providores of Parisian perfection at Absinthesalon have opened a shopfront and imbibing premises of distinction on 87 Albion Street, Surry Hills. With a large range of absinthes to sample, at very reasonable prices, I’m not sure why you are still reading this and not out the door. Or on a plane (if you are interstate)..

And now dear fellow Libertine, a tale of absinthe’s infamous past. First published in the “Boston Herald” in 1888, then reprinted in New Zealands “Bruce Herald” the same year, it reveals that a novel kind of ’speak easy’ bar for possibly illicit and unlicensed consumption of alcohol was a favourite of the socialite set and certain ladies of distinction (as was the local Chinese Opium den!).

Pour a glass, relax and read on….

Bruce Herald, Volume XIX, Issue 1925, 20 January 1888, Page 5

I used to discredit the sensational stories that the patrons of the fashionable modistes repaired to those places so frequently, under the pretence of trying on a dress, because of the attraction of the buffet offering the choicest liquors and wines, writes a New York correspondent, until one day a lady friend confirmed the reports by narrating her experience, frankly confessing that at several modistes she named it was customary to serve drinks to the regular or recognised patrons.  The dressmaking, like the fruit store in front of the sample room, was merely part of the business carried on, and there was a regular charge for the liquors, covered in the bill by ‘trimmings’ and “attentions.”

And I know from personal knowledge that some very well known ladies used to resort to the better class of uptown opium joints several years ago, when such were not subject to police raids for the purpose of ‘hitting the pipe’ in the most approved style, because I once assisted a husband in rescuing his wife from one of these places within an easy walk of Madison Square.  And the doctor will or can tell you that the morphine habit – by hypodermic injection, easily administered after practice –has ruined many a previously domestic circle by claiming the mistress as a victim and condemning her to a dream-life, all the more miserable because of the terrible awakening, resulting in insanity and death.

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A casual stroll down through Brisbane’s Fortitude Valley when the sun has gone down was until recently not everyone’s idea of a safe and sensible excursion, however a considerable amount of urban renewal has transformed the BrisVegas Kings Cross into a somewhat more sociable place for dining and entertainment.

But when you get to end of the precinct, and persevere by going a little further down Anne Street you will encounter an altogether different and interesting residential/restaurant/retail development called Emporium that has a neo-Parisian vibe.

There amongst the soft neon my destination greets me. Belle Epoque.

Immediately I am taken by the surrounds. Dark stained wooden dining booths, crisp linen, red leather couches and frosted glass dividers. Rococo style wall mountings in a mandatory gaudy gold against dappled wattle orange walls and polished wall mirrors. They have gone for the late 19th century flair and achieved it - and while not the small intimacy of a petite bistro, have created something equally period on a grander scale where one can get full silver service, or something more casual.

I take my place up at the fresco laden bar and peruse the stylish bound menu.

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Why am I haunted by bad eighties tunes when I write these things? Ahem.

Fellow absintheur, you can no doubt be aware that many a fine cocktail establishment are making a mark for themselves, not only on the Australian stage, but yea verily, on the global stage.  And signature absinthe cocktails are contributing to this success.

You will hear more about such establishments in coming weeks, but I want to first highlight a major event just passed in Ol’ New Orleans - Tales of the Cocktail , an internationally acclaimed gathering of the literati and glitterati of the mixological world, including  the Second Annual Wormwood Society Grande Soiree d’Absinthe.  Honestly, if you want to get to know your absinthe (aside from us of course), join the merry folk on the Wormwood Society Forum. They are US based but many an antipodean does frequent its hallowed halls.

Matthew Bax - De Raum Owner and Artist

Now, why this particular event is so special is that over the last couple of years, Australian establishments have made something of an impact - last year with 1806, and this year with De Raum, two establishments who have made absinthe part of their cocktail raison d’etre.

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Good ‘morrow gentle Libertines.  Here is a selection of absinthe and neo-bohemia related items in the world news over the past week or two for your reading pleasure.

Angie Rayfield of the Examiner thinks a fitting tribute to the late Mr Jackson is the “ABC Cocktail” - consisting of 1/3 absinthe, 1/3 Bacardi and 1/3 Chartreuse. I’m not sure if this is just lazy journalism or lazy mixology. Anyone brave enough to try this please, let us know how bad it really is.

Also from the Examiner, an article on Austin-based absinthe bar, Peche

An artisan Bohemian style bar in the UK, Opium, utilising the works of local craftsmen and artists will be functional gallery enabling the imbiber to also be an imbuyber.

A nice article on the LA based Malediction Society running steam-punk affair events

and finally a blog piece on Ted Breaux’s Great Absinthe Crusade

And Melbourne readers, don’t forget the Absinthe Party Ticket Competition being sponsored by the Marionette Talent Agency.  Entries close 3 July 2009 - send in a photo of you looking decadently brilliant to newlibertines @ absinthe.com.au and you can win a free ticket.

What does one do on their first night in a strange city like San Francisco?

Taking a stroll downtown to go visit the Absinthe Brasserie & Bar should be considered a must for any absintheur. As I am swanning through this fair city for a mixture of work and pleasure, it would be remiss of me to forgo visiting this fine establishment and letting you, dear Absinthe.com.au reader, know all about it. Particularly as their website is absinthe.com (to our absinthe.com.au), we feel a little fraternal affinity from an interweb point of view.

Situated on an easily identifiable corner position between Gough and Hayes Street, this popular establishment has a rich and luxuriously laid out dining area and easily accessible bar area where food may also be purchased alongside ones imbibing. The decor and ambience reflects the French Cafe atmosphere one would desire for a night on the green.

Upon my arrival I was warmly greeted by a namesake, Jonathan (Jonny Raglin), the Principal Bartender for Absinthe. Soon our mutual love and interest in absinthe laid the foundations for comparisons of the Australian and US experiences with absinthe. Of course such conversations should be lubricated with a glass of absinthe. Perched on the bar were two four tap water fountains waiting for my decision….Lucid or the San Franciscan produced St George Absinthe. Neither of which are currently available in Australia.

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Your humble administrator and professional Libertine Robert had the honour of conducting an absinthe tasting last week (at De Nom - one of the most beautiful rooms in Sydney), for our good friends over at Absinthesalon. It was a media-only event, and as far as we can ascertain it was the first stand-alone absinthe tasting to be held in Australia).

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It has been hideously hot in Adelaide this week, pushing in the high thirties, and I have dragged my way into the city to meet up with my brother to go see the Fringe art installation CircuiTree (which I will cover in more detail in part 2).

We arrived a little early at the installation site which is a old church on Grote Street that is currently up for lease and makes for an excellent art-performance space. We manage to get a peek inside before it begins, and quickly decide that we probably need to come back later when darkness descends to fully appreciate it.

At a loose end we decide to get a drink, and being on Grote Street this gives me the opportunity to finally check out a little cafe-bar a short stroll away call La Boheme. From what I have read, the premises used to be an old tobacconist - the heavily curtained windows in the external facade highlighting the delightful 19th century architecture of the building, already promoting a sense that this is something of a discrete and intimate salon.

We enter into a cool and comfortable space, and find ourselves an empty table before the small stage where a pair of performers are belting out what my brother refers to as his ‘old busking repertoire’ - so he likes the venue already. In fact it is rare to find a place where the musicians are so close, but the volume controlled suitably for the size of the venue (which is quite small - but deliciously so) such that one can enjoy music and discussion concurrently.

As I had entered my eyes had immediately shot to the back wall to identify the absinthe bottles. My brother has not had absinthe before, and so the setting, the ‘green’ hour of the day and the opportunity was perfect for his introduction.

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