A Cheeky Absinthe Or Three @ Absinthesalon Part 1: Duplais Balance

It has been too long between drinks in terms of popping into Absinthesalon in Sydney. Thus taking considered steps to be booked on the last flight out that evening left more than enough room to ensure an evening of conviviality could be spent in that splendid establishment.

But with what to break the drought? If there are at least a couple of drinks on the cards, best try something to wet the whistle with a gentle blow. And Duplais Balance at 60% alc/vol in its retro-label offering seemed to be the friendliest way to start the session.

This vert Swiss absinthe from Matter-Luginbühl Distillery, is most floral and simply delightful on the nose, a clear natural vibrant green pooled at the bottom of the glass. Much more than just a whistle wetter. Perhaps having more a potential to pickle the piccolo.

Setting the dripper going over the sugar, the louche happened a lot sooner than I had expected (but maybe this was because I was lost in good conversation), albeit graduated from bottom to top as the relative liquid densities swirled and interplayed into equilibrium.

The final translucency is consistent, but not thick, a feature that seemed to be reflected on the tongue. The finish is orderly, but not lengthy. More skim milk and not adhering greatly to my mucosal linings.

Make no mistake, it is an absinthe that hits all the right notes on the musical score: low register wormwood bitterness, arpeggiated potassium-chalky minerality that pops in and out, high accents of mint, fennel, anise and coriander played legato.

But the performance is perhaps not a Mozart, maybe more a Salieri. More than competent, excellent performer and faultless technicality.

But it didn’t induce a standing ovation from me.

The night is young, and there is more absinthe to come.

Jonathan Sep 2nd 2012 10:01 pm Absinthe brands,Absinthe Reviews,Bars,Culture,Distilleries,Food,News,Reviews No Comments yet Trackback URI

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