On becoming a Douby Brother – Doubs review 11 Jan 2010

Cheap puns and expensive liquor, yes siree, that’s what we are about here at Absinthe.com.au

Doubs Premium Absinthe has been on Australian liquor store shelves for a while now and probably overdue for a review.  Presented in a nice giftbox, this 500mL rectangular based bottle is adorned with a screw-cap printed with fleur-de-lys motifs, and so named after the region of Doubs at the base of the Jura Mountains in France, known historically for absinthe production (albeit the product is actually from South Africa). The product is 55% alc/vol, a little lower than some, and claims 7.4mg/L thujone – which is also a little at odds with the “maximum thujone” claim on the front label, which would be 10 mg/L.  But as we all know, the thujone content is not and should not be the determining factor of a quality absinthe, don’t we? (Repeat after me those thinking otherwise…)

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Cracking the lid releases an almost candied herbal aroma with a savoury-spice low note.  The product is  reminding me already of Moulin Rooz absinthe structurally, which lends me to believe that the product is a mixed wormwood distillation with individual macerated herb bases.

In the glass it is a crystal clear green of definite artificial hue, and to some, this could be off putting. But persevere dear imbiber.  It is a very young, clean but not overly complex smelling absinthe, light on the anise, pronounced fennel and vegetation notes, with a touch of alcohol intensity, surprisingly.

With the addition of water, the louche is somewhat quick off the starting blocks, and rather than trails in the liquor seems to migrate into layers of separation between louched and unlouched spirit.  The louching also releases a more earthy aroma with the hint of pine forest. As the dilution continues the louche is much more of a pleasing pale lime to olive green, certainly much richer than the initial base might suggest. It is not an overly thick or milky louche, translucency permitting the spoon to the dimly visible.

Taken with sugar, it carries a medium body leaning to the skim milk end of the spectrum. It is not an overly complex absinthe, but nor is it one dimensional. The hyssop and anise flavours are understated, there is no alcohol bite and the wormwood bitterness is pleasingly balanced with a nice length to it.  Taken without sugar the bitterness is certainly enhanced, but not in a detrimental way, with an additional layer of minerality to the tongue. It is interesting to see that sugar potentially masks certain flavours in this absinthe. Best to try it both ways.

It is certainly a comfortable absinthe, and probably not a bad introduction for the novice. There is nothing to shock, being a rather easy drinking tipple. It certainly tastes much better than it may look (to intelligensia snobs such as me), as it visually lines up visually with some of the less desirable ‘absinth’ products, however, it certainly outdoes them in flavour, balance and quality.

There is also a much higher premium Doubs Mystique Absinthe in the offering but not yet availble in mainstream retail in Australia – hopefully that may change soon, and facilitate a follow up review.

Jonathan Jan 11th 2010 02:30 pm Absinthe brands,Food,Reviews No Comments yet Trackback URI

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